Day Six - Thursday, September 29, 2011 - Eastport

This last day was relatively quiet – the banana bread at breakfast was especially good.   Our first activity was not until 11:15 am at Quoddy Bay Lobster in downtown Eastport leaving plenty of time for a stop at the Thrift Store to see if we missed anything.

On to Quoddy Bay Lobster where Sara (one of the owners) provided a really good explanation of the lobster business --- Sara showed us large lobsters, small lobsters, hard shell lobsters, soft shell lobsters --- and told us all that goes into getting the lobster from the trap to the table.

 

We ordered lunch--- I had the best lobster roll – big chunks of meat with a claw on top – it was so delicious because it was fresh and on a grilled roll.   

In the afternoon we visited Carol at Shore Road Farm --- Carol explained the challenges of her new venture of growing organic wheat.   Carol also runs “Scythe Supply”  – a business she started with a partner a few years ago.  Scythe Supply provides custom-made scythes to customers worldwide.

Before going to Audrey’s for our special last cooking lesson/dinner – we had time for a stop at the “Red Sleigh” – a lovely shop with a variety of items from hand-knitted caps and scarves to food items to mats made from rope used on fishing boats.   We swarmed into the place and several of the mats were purchased for those with available space in their cars  ---- some of us opted to buy the huge homemade cookies.

At 5:30 pm we arrived at Audrey’s – we had been told this would be a special evening and it was.   As Audrey announced the teams – we noticed there were no recipes – that was the surprise.  Each station was stocked with a variety of ingredients  -- the team’s task was to make something out of the ingredients and name the recipe.  It was a challenge but lots of fun – every dish came out great.

Phil and I were paired together – Our ingredients consisted of a large eggplant, a bag of small multi-colored peppers, an onion, two small zucchini, a box of mushrooms, seasoning and olive oil.   We developed “Eastport Eggplant” --- sliced eggplant sautéed then placed in a baking dish with a pepper ring on top of each slice surrounded by mushrooms and finished with a sauce of olive oil, chopped onion and pepper.  

Another surprise for the evening was the entertainment – Penney and Kara played guitar and accordion – it was perfect background music as we went through our paces. 

Our menu this evening consisted of:  Appetizers:  Endive Salad, Guacamole Dip with Tortilla Chips, Pureed Vegetable Soup – and the Main Course:  Lobsters, Pork,  Eastport Eggplant,  Mississippi Mud Cake and Apple Crisp – if I missed anything I hope someone will let me know.  

 

Our diplomas showed successful completion of:   “Culinary Escape on Passamaquoddy Bay”  September 29, 2011.

We could not have had a better week – the accommodations, the schedule – the people  - the weather – and of course the food – everything added up to equal a wonderful week in Eastport, Maine.

Day Five - Wednesday, September 28, 2011 - Eastport

We slept in this morning getting up around 7:00 am.  We were off to Campobello Island to see FDR’s Summer Home.  We needed passports to cross the border into Canada.  

Phil offered to drive our car with Beth and Jack for this hour long drive – freeing up room in the van which is tight for twelve people on a long ride.

Mary made us a wonderful breakfast of French toast – and fruit and coffee before we headed off to Canada at 9:00 am.

We zipped through Canadian Customs without even showing our passports – Campobello is just on the other side of the border.    The house is spectacular and very well maintained – the gardens are gorgeous.   The view is amazing and almost all the furnishings are from the Roosevelt Family.   Interestingly enough electricity was not put into this house until 1952.   So the entire time FDR and his family  were in residence during the summers lighting was by  kerosene lamps.  They did have plumbing and there were several bathrooms.  

We toured the entire house, the Hubbard House next door and all the grounds – then back to the U.S. for lunch in Lubec at Cohill’s Inn.   Our border crossing into the U.S. took a little longer and we did have to show our passports – it appeared that the border patrol person was checking them.   Cohill’s -- in the middle of town with an ocean view --- was very much like an Irish pub.  Lunch was delicious – several of us got the walnut, cranberry salad – since we know we’re going to Audrey’s –

After lunch we stopped at Monica’s Chocolate Shop for a tour and samples – everything is done by hand.   Of course Phil had to purchase chocolates to take home – if they make it that far.

Next stop was West Quoddy Lighthouse --- the eastern most point in the United States with a plaque to prove it.  The views from the cliff and the trails through the parkland/woods were spectacular --- a great place to have picnic.

 

We arrived at Audrey’s about 5:00 pm  -- a little later than usual but she was ready for us with recipes and team assignments.  Tonight my team includes Jack and Bryant --- our task is to prepare Carrot Fettucini and Curried Cauliflower with Yogurt and Mint Sauce.  Getting the carrots to look like fettucini was not easy but it was well worth it – this is a great dish.   We all “helped” make the lobster bisque and the scallops.  Our menu was:   Appetizers in the living room with wine:  Broiled Finnan Haddie, Crescent Pastries with Sherried Crab, Lobster/Shrimp Bisque.  The Main Meal in the Dining Room:  French Onion Soup Gratinee, Scallops Duglere, Carrot Fettucini, Curried Cauliflower and for Dessert:  Lemon Yogurt Cake and poached pears in red wine.

The meal was most satisfying and a happy and content group went back to Eastport.

Day Four - Tuesday - September 27, 2011 - Eastport

Up early – Phil and I walked through town and around to the IGA  to pick up a few things and try the parking lot for cell service. 

Breakfast at 8:00 am --- can’t believe I was even hungry.  Picked up by Jeanne at 9:30 to the Passamaquoddy Indian Museum.  It was just ok – the guide was was very young and about 20 minutes late – we learned some things we did not know so it was worthwhile.

Jeanne dropped us off  for lunch on our own with instructions to meet at 1:30 on the dock  to board the Ada C. Lore for our schooner whale watch excursion.  We all got out of the van  in front of the Thrift Store -- finding more great stuff for 25 cents a bag.     Phil decided we needed libation and snacks so he went to the IGA – bought beer and junk food for the schooner.

It was a perfect day for a schooner ride --- the water was calm and although the air was cool the sun was shining and there was very little wind.   Lee, the Naturist on board knew everything about any kind of sea animal that we might encounter.   She had a camera with a lense that had to be 2 feet long .   We saw a couple of whales – lots of dolphins and a whole group of seals in the water and around the rocks.    Three hours on the water flew by --

 

Jeanne took us directly to Audrey’s place for our second cooking session.    By now we knew the drill – we got our recipe packets and were given our teams.  Joyce and I were responsible for Ginger Slaw with fresh mint and Braised Fennel and Potatoes.

Audrey had soaked the cabbage and the onions so we just had to make the dressing and put together the Slaw.   The Fennel/Potato dish was a little more challenging but it made a big hit.    This evening’s meal included:   Appetizers in the living room by the fire:   Poached Salmon Spread, Grilled Avocado Soup, New England Fish Chowder – and of course wine..   Our Main Course in the Dining Room: Roast Parsley Chicken, Braised Fennel and Potatoes, Ginger Slaw with Fresh Mint and for Dessert:  Ginger Cake and Coffee and Cream Panna Cotta.

And yet again, Jeanne took home a very full and happy group of aspiring chefs.

Day Three - Monday - September 26, 2011 - Eastport, ME

After a restless night – it was very warm here and no air conditioning – we were awake about 6:00 am.   I was out the door to walk at 6:30  with the town almost to myself ---  except for a man walking his dog..  What a beautiful time of day to be around the water.

Jeanne picked us up at 9:30 am for our first stop at Raye’s Mustard Factory which has been in business since 1900.   Gerald explained how mustard is made  at Raye’s and why it is better than most – we had samples of the 25 flavors available and – most of us purchased a jar or two.

Next stop was Saint Croix Island which was settled by Pierre Dugua in 1604 under the direction of King Henri IV  of France.    On our arrival, Meg, the National Park Ranger, directed us to a large apple tree telling us we could pick as many apples as we could carry --- so we did.  In the midst of the apple picking I noticed my camera was not around my wrist anymore.   We searched all over but couldn’t find it – this made no sense.   Just as one of the workers was getting his chain saw to clear the branches  – I had an “AHA moment  and found the camera in my apple bag where it went when I was double bagging my loot.   Crises averted.

Meg gave us an animated rendition of  how this area was settled then sent us down a path to see the actual site with the caveat that she would finish her story when we came back..   The path was adorned with a number of bronze statues  -- Indians and Settlers in various poses of how they might have spent their day – spearing fish – gathering wood, etc.     Meg completed the story on our return – but you’ll have to visit Meg at the St. Croix Island National Park to find out the “rest of the story.”

Next stop was lunch at “Bank Square Pizza and Deli” in downtown Eastport for an authentic Mexican meal.  Marilu, the owner, is Mexican married to a Mainer.    She is single-handedly introducing fresh homemade Mexican food to this part of Maine.  

Just down the block from the restaurant Beth had discovered the Episcopal Church Thrift Store – she arrived at lunch with a bag of  great “stuff”  which cost 25 cents for the entire bag.   After lunch several of us made a beeline to the thrift store --- Phil even came in to take a look.  We had more fun picking up some great buys.

Next on the agenda was our cooking lesson -- Jeanne picked us up at 3:30 to go to Chef Audrey Patterson’s house.    Audrey lives in Perry Maine – a 20 minute drive through a very wooded and isolated area.   Audrey lives on 150 acres in a house she inherited from an aunt whose photo hangs in the dining room.   The view is like no other ---  on a point looking over Passamaquoddy Bay to Canada.

Let the lesson begin -- we each received a packet with recipes for the evening meal – teams were assigned and off we went.   Beth, Marilyn and I were the dessert people – making a blueberry cake and a blueberry pizza. –  Other menu items were:  Steamed Clams and Eggplant Caponata as appetizers with wine on the deck, Poached Salmon, Bread Pudding and Caesar Salad in the dining room.  It was a great meal and we were all happy and full when Jeanne took us home.    Our first cooking “lesson” was a huge success ---

Day Two - Sunday - September 25, 2011 - Camden To Eastport

After breakfast at the Mariner Inn and a walk around town to an overlook point showing another angle of Camden Harbor --  we were off to Eastport  on  Route 1 North at  9:00 am.  
I convinced Phil to stop at one Flea Market in Searsport where he found an “Emmet Kelly” figurine trying to play golf for $2.

The drive was tedious --- to say the least.  Route 1 is two lanes and winds continuously through many small towns – the speed limits change frequently and quickly from 55 to 30 miles per hour.

Phil drove most of the way so  when we stopped for lunch at Helen’s in Machias – he was ready to stretch.   Helen’s was a good choice – not that there were any others.   I had the best veggie burger cooked as recommended by our waitress and Phil had steamed clams.

We arrived at the Millikin House in Eastport mid-afternoon.  Mary, the proprietor,  showed us to our room on the third floor – good thing we are in shape.

Phil made a mad dash to the “Happy Crab Sports Bar” to watch the Patriots play the Bills.   I unpacked and wandered through town arriving at the Happy Crab just in time to see the Patriots lose – a very ugly end to what was a promising game.

Back at the Millikin we discovered Beth and Jack had arrived with Marnie and Joyce and we met Brian and Barbara from No. Carolina – also part of our Road Scholar group. 

At 6:15 pm Jeanne picked us up – took us to see the sunset which we missed by about three minutes – and to the Chowder House for dinner with Chef Audrey for our “orientation”. 

We met Marilyn and Bernie from New Hampshire and Ernie (part of Beth’s group) who are staying at the Kilby House.  There are eleven participants for our Culinary Week.

Audrey is delightful and the meal at the Chowder House was good – choices were lobster, fisherman’s platter, pasta with seafood and a delicious cobbler for dessert.

All of this food was just begging for an after dinner walk so some of us walked home and enjoyed the cool night air – wondering what this week will bring.

Day One - Saturday - September 24, 2011 - Boston to Camden

Phil and I left Boston at 9:26 am intending to take the scenic route up the coast of New England – Phil was driving.    By the time we stopped for lunch at 12:30 pm -- we were only in Wells, ME.  I would not have minded except that we didn’t stop at any antique or consignment shops --- our only stop was the Verizon store because I was having a problem with my phone’s navigation system.

Our Lady of Good Harbor

After lunch -- I took the wheel and immediately got on to Route 95 heading north.   We arrived in Camden at 3:35 pm.   It was mild, and cloudy with a bit of  a drizzle.  I remembered that the Catholic Church had Mass at 4:00 pm so after checking in to The Inn at Camden Place  -- we headed straight  for  Our Lady of Good Hope.  This was a most picturesque church befitting a Maine coastal town.   Phil lasted about half way through the Mass and told me he’d meet me in town.

After Mass  as I was ambling  toward town I happened upon Frugal Suzy’s -- consignment shop --- I picked up a couple of shirts for Yoga and a Lands End Kaki jacket - total tab:  $23.00.  I met Phil in town – he had a knowing look on his face as I approached with a bag in my hand. 

Phil by Camden Harbor

We walked around Camden – the harbor looks like it belongs in a movie set.   The hotel recommended six restaurants:  three when I called to make the reservation and three different recommendations when we checked in.  All  were within walking distance of downtown so we checked out all the menus.  We went in to one place – had a drink at the bar and then continued on our way.    We went in to another place -- were seated at the table – and decided it wasn’t the right atmosphere for us so we left.  Are we getting more picky in our old age or do we have more time on our hands?   Maybe we just don’t  give a damn what anyone else thinks?

Justin, Wind, Pat at 40 Papers

We ended up at “40 Paper Italian Bistro and Bar” --- a deciding factor was a recommendation from a woman sitting on a bench in the middle of town.  It was the only place we hadn’t checked the menu and I asked her for directions --- and as an after thought I said “So is this place any good?”    She said it was fabulous and they had a great bartender.

We arrived at Forty Papers -- met Justin and Wind (his parents were hippies) – they were both great bartenders and looked alike to boot.   We had dinner at the bar – it was terrific  – we made the right choice.  

After dinner --- we strolled around town --- just about everything was closed except for an ice cream place --- so we imbibed – went back to our room and collapsed.

A good first day of our Maine Culinary Experience!